Opened bottles near their end and ingredients coming into season show here.
Preparing
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Porcini
Boletus edulis · Fungus
Top 10 pairings
Porcini, also called the cep or penny bun, is prized above most wild mushrooms. It has a bun-brown cap and a sponge of tubes instead of gills. Meaty and deeply savoury, even more so dried, it stars in risotto, pasta and stews.
Picking a good onedrag
Firm, white-pored, drySpongy, slimy, sour
Shop firmEveryday bestThe all-rounder: risotto, tagliatelle, a butter fry, a roast.
CapA scuff or two, colour still even
Pore layerPale yellow, still firm to press
Cut at the baseFaint tan at the cut, still solid
SmellClean, mild, plainly mushroomy
Keeping ittap a temperature
A domestic fridge holds it about 4× longer than the counter.