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The beech mushroom (Hypsizygus marmoreus), better known by its Japanese name shimeji, is the dense little cluster of long, slender stems and small marbled caps sold as buna-shimeji (brown-cap) and bunapi or buna-shimeji white (ivory-cap). Each clump holds dozens of thin white stalks topped with caps barely a couple of centimetres across — tan and faintly marbled in the brown strain, near-pure white in the bred pale strain. Firm and almost crunchy, it is mild, nutty and a touch bitter when raw, a bitterness that vanishes on cooking to leave a savoury, gently sweet, distinctly nutty taste. It is a mushroom to be cooked, never eaten raw, and one of the most widely grown gourmet fungi of East Asia.
What to look for, from dry caps, cluster rigid to slimy caps, sour, stems parting.