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The leek (Allium ampeloprasum) is the gentlest of the cultivated onions — a tall, cylindrical stalk of tightly furled blue-green leaves blanching to a long white shaft at the base. Sweet, mild and faintly oniony, it melts into a silky, savoury sweetness when cooked, the backbone of soups, braises and the classic leek-and-potato pairing.
What to look for, from rigid white shaft, just pulled to limp, yellowing, woody.