Ham is the hind leg of the pig, cured and — in its everyday form — cooked, giving the pink, tender, gently salty meat of the deli counter, the glazed centrepiece of the holiday table and the British gammon boiled or roasted for Sunday lunch. Salt and nitrite curing fix its rosy colour and savoury, faintly sweet tang; cooking sets the juicy, sliceable texture. Unlike raw dry-cured hams such as prosciutto or serrano, this is the wet-cured, heat-cooked kind — mild, moist and eaten hot or cold in sandwiches, with eggs, or carved from the bone.