Gurnard
Chelidonichthys cuculus · Fish
Top 10 pairings
The gurnard (family Triglidae) is a bottom-dwelling sea fish with an armoured, bony head, fan-like pectoral fins, and a row of free finger-like feelers it uses to "walk" the seabed and taste for prey. Long sold cheaply as bait or fish-soup stock, its firm, sweet, white flesh — close in eating quality to red mullet or monkfish — has made it a prized, sustainable table fish.
Picking a good onedrag
Just landed: eyes bulging, seaweed-freshOff: eyes sunken, smelling sour
Counter freshEveryday bestCook to 63 C / 145 F inside; mind the spiny fins and head. Previously frozen, eyes and press can lag, but it must still smell fresh and mild.
Eyes and gills, whole fishEyes slightly sunken; gills paler, slime clear
Skin and its slimeColours bright, not lustrous; slime slightly cloudy
Press the fleshLess elastic, still springs back
Smell at gills, belly or fleshNeutral and mild, no seaweed left