Grains of selim are the slender, twisted, bean-like dried fruit pods of Xylopia aethiopica, an aromatic West African tree in the custard-apple family. Used whole or crushed as a smoky, musky peppercorn substitute — its scent likened to black cardamom, nutmeg and resin — it seasons soups, stews, smoked-fish rubs and herbal teas across the region, and is the defining flavouring of Senegal's café Touba. It is known across the region by many names: hwentia in Ghana, etso to the Ewe, and diarr or djar in Wolof.