Fiddlehead

Matteuccia struthiopteris · Vegetable

40 pairings

A fiddlehead is the tightly coiled young frond, or crozier, of the ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris), foraged for only a few weeks each spring before it unfurls into a leaf. Bright green and spiral-wound like the scroll at the head of a violin, each tender curl carries a thin papery brown husk and tastes grassy and vegetal — somewhere between asparagus, green bean and spinach. It is a celebrated springtime delicacy of New England and eastern Canada, but one that must always be thoroughly cooked before it is eaten.

Picking a good onedrag

Tight coil, firm, just cutUncurled, yellow, slimy

Market freshThe standard tray, same rule and no shortcut: boil 15 minutes or steam 10 to 12, discard the water, and only then saute in butter, garlic and lemon.Everyday best

The coilStill closed, the green a shade duller

Cut endsFace dry and pale, the stalk firm to a squeeze

Squeeze oneFirm, gives slightly, still springs back

Smell in the boxGreen and quiet, mostly earth

What to look for, from tight coil, firm, just cut to uncurled, yellow, slimy.

Preparing