Epazote

Dysphania ambrosioides · Herb

40 pairings

Epazote (Dysphania ambrosioides) is a pungent, polarising Mexican herb whose toothed, pointed green leaves carry one of the most arresting aromas in the kitchen — petrol, camphor, oregano, anise and citrus colliding at once. Native to central and southern Mexico and Central America, it is the herb traditionally simmered with black beans to tame their notorious gassiness, and it perfumes quesadillas, soups, moles and the corn dough of the Mexican table.

Picking a good onedrag

Just cut, sprigs standing stiffBlackened, slumped and slimy

Shop freshCulinary amounts are the traditional use. Medicinal-strength teas, decoctions and the distilled oil have killed children; avoid it in pregnancy.Everyday best

The leafGreen, blades relaxed, an odd yellow leaf low down

The stemBends before it snaps, cut end still pale

The liftStands, then the tips fold over slowly

Smell at a bruised leafClearly there, but you have to bruise it harder

What to look for, from just cut, sprigs standing stiff to blackened, slumped and slimy.

Preparing