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The durian is the large, spike-armoured fruit of Durio zibethinus, a tall tropical tree of Southeast Asia, celebrated across the region as the "king of fruits." Its woody, thorn-covered husk splits along seams into segments holding lobes of rich, pale-yellow, custard-like flesh — at once intensely sweet, savoury and faintly bitter — whose powerful sulfurous aroma, variously read as onion, rotten egg, almond and warm caramel, is so pervasive that the fruit is banned from many hotels, aircraft and metro systems.
What to look for, from fragrant, seams shut, husk olive to split, weeping, sour and boozy.