Opened bottles near their end and ingredients coming into season show here.
Preparing
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Cholla Bud
Cylindropuntia spp. · Vegetable
Top 10 pairings
Cholla buds are the unopened flower buds of the cholla cactus (Cylindropuntia species), harvested in spring before they bloom, then de-spined and dried into a small, chewy, greenish-brown Southwestern vegetable. A traditional food of the Tohono O'odham and other Sonoran Desert peoples — who call them ciolim — the reconstituted buds have a tangy, artichoke-and-asparagus flavour and are prized as one of the most calcium-rich foods of the desert.
Picking a good onedrag
Hard, khaki, cleanly sweptSoft, dark, musty
A well-kept jarEveryday bestHandled the same way, soaked then simmered to a tender-chewy bite. The tart, faintly slick cooking water is worth keeping back as a light broth.
Colour through the packetBrowner and duller, but still even across the whole lot
Areole ringsA stray spine or glochid: lift it off with tweezers, never a bare hand
Tip a few outHard still, though one or two give a little under the thumb
Smell in the packetQuieter, mostly hay, the sweet-tart edge going