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Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis) is a cool-season brassica grown for its dense white head — a tight dome of thousands of arrested flower buds packed into a single edible "curd." Mild, faintly sweet and cabbage-like raw, it turns nutty and sulfurous when cooked and meltingly tender when roasted, and is the same species as cabbage, broccoli, kale and Brussels sprouts.
What to look for, from tight white curd to ricey, speckled, sulfurous.