The candy cap (Lactarius rubidus) is a small, unassuming red-brown woodland mushroom famous for one extraordinary trait: as it dries it develops a rich aroma of maple syrup, burnt sugar and fenugreek. A mycorrhizal milk cap of the North American Pacific coast, it is foraged in autumn and winter, dried, and used almost as a spice — folded into cookies, ice cream, custards and shortbread, but also into savoury sauces, where a pinch lends a sweet, curry-like depth.