Anchovy
Engraulis encrasicolus · Fish
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A small, oily, silver-blue sea fish. Salt-cured for months in barrels, it turns coppery-pink, briny and deeply umami. A fillet melts away into sauces like Caesar dressing, leaving only savoury depth.
Picking a good onedrag
Just landed, bright and stiffOff: sunken, sour, burst belly
Iced and firmBuy itBuy it from ice; cook it that day. It can smell fine yet hold histamine no cooking or freezing removes.
EyesClear, just starting to flatten
GillsRed, a shade duller, still clean
Body and bellyFirm, springs back, belly intact
SmellMild and briny, like fresh seaweed