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Xinomavro is the great red grape of northern Greece — the noble variety behind the age-worthy reds of Naoussa in Macedonia and the backbone of Goumenissa, Amyndeon and Rapsani. Despite a thin skin and a pale, almost translucent colour, it builds wines of formidable structure: high acidity and firm, gripping tannin wrapped around savoury notes of tomato, black olive, dried fruit, dried herbs and earth. Slow to reveal itself and built to age for decades, it is so often likened to Italy's Nebbiolo that it has earned the nickname the "Greek Barolo". The name itself means "acid-black", a plain description of its searingly fresh, dark-fruited character.