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Montefalco Sagrantino is one of the most tannic red wines made anywhere. It comes from a small patch of Umbrian hill country around the walled town of Montefalco, is made from nothing but Sagrantino, and cannot be sold until it has spent thirty-three months ageing — twelve of them in oak — plus four more in bottle. The wine is near-opaque purple-black, dry, full-bodied and gripping — blackberry and plum over clove, liquorice, leather and earth. The same grape still makes the sweet passito that was its original identity.