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Etna Rosso is the red wine of an active volcano: Nerello Mascalese, with up to a fifth of the fleshier Nerello Cappuccio, grown on terraces of black ash and lava sand between roughly 400 and 1,000 metres on Mount Etna. Sicily's first DOC, granted in 1968, it is pale, translucent and light-to-medium in body, with piercing acidity, fine persistent tannin and a smoky, savoury edge — the reason it is compared, endlessly, to Burgundy and Barolo.