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Macabeo — called Viura across Rioja and Navarra — is Spain's most planted white grape after the bulk workhorse Airén, and the country's leading white variety for quality wine. It does two very different jobs. In Rioja it is the backbone of white Rioja in both of its faces: the pale, cold-fermented, unoaked style of green apple, lemon and white blossom, and the traditional barrel-aged Reserva and Gran Reserva blancos that turn deep gold, nutty and honeyed and can last for decades. In Catalonia it is one of the three classic Cava grapes alongside Xarel·lo and Parellada, often the largest share of the blend.