Moulin-à-Vent

Moulin-à-Vent is the firmest and most ageworthy of the ten Beaujolais crus — the "King of Beaujolais" — a Gamay that trades the grape's usual crunchy, gulpable lightness for real depth: dense black cherry and dark plum, iris and peony perfume, gentle but present tannin and an earthy, mineral structure that can mature for a decade or more toward an almost Pinot-Noir-like complexity.