Cirò

Cirò is Calabria's great red and one of the oldest continuously made wines in Italy, grown on the clay-and-limestone hills that run down to the Ionian Sea in the province of Crotone. It is at least 80 percent Gaglioppo, and the surprise is the gap between how it looks and how it feels: pale ruby fading fast to garnet, but high in acid and firmly, dustily tannic, with sour cherry and cranberry over oregano scrub, orange peel and a dry, savoury, faintly bitter finish.