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Somlo is the volcanic, mineral face of Furmint: a bone-dry, intensely stony white grown on the basalt slopes of a single extinct volcano rising from the plain of western Hungary. Where sweet Tokaji is honeyed and unctuous, Somlo Furmint is austere, smoky and age-worthy — quince, citrus and struck flint over a searing acidity and a long, saline, mineral finish.