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Coteaux du Layon is the Loire's great sweet Chenin Blanc: a lusciously honeyed dessert wine from the hills flanking the little river Layon in Anjou, made from late-harvested and nobly rotten grapes. Deep gold and unctuous, it smells of apricot, honey, marmalade and quince, yet Chenin's piercing acidity keeps it fresh and vibrant rather than cloying.