Alcamo

Alcamo is the appellation that takes Catarratto seriously. Recognised in 1972 and for years a white-only DOC, it sits on the limestone hills between Trapani and Palermo, where Sicily's most-planted white grape — a variety that spent most of the twentieth century disappearing into Marsala and bulk blending — is grown at altitude and low yields for a dry, crisp, saline table wine. Alcamo Bianco is at least 60 percent Catarratto; the stricter Alcamo Classico demands 80.