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Etna Bianco is the white wine of an active volcano: at least 60 percent Carricante, grown on terraces of black ash and lava sand between roughly 400 and 1,000 metres on Mount Etna. Sicily's first DOC, granted in 1968, it is pale, bone-dry and taut, with searing acidity, a salty, flinty finish and almost no fruit sweetness — and, rarest of all for a southern Italian white, it ages for a decade or more.