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Roero is the appellation that saved Arneis. On the left bank of the Tanaro, across the water from Alba and the Langhe, the hills are ancient sea sand rather than the marl that makes Barolo — lighter ground that gives a perfumed, textural white. The wine is dry, at least 95 percent Arneis, and tastes of pear, white peach and chamomile with a dry bitter-almond finish; its acidity is soft by Italian standards, so its appeal is scent and texture rather than bite.