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Bourgogne Aligoté is Burgundy's tart, thirst-quenching "other white" — the region-wide appellation for its second white grape, made bone-dry and almost always unoaked. Where Chardonnay brings weight and gloss, this is lean and high-strung: bright lemon, green apple and white flowers over a stony, saline cut, drunk young and cold, and the classic base for a Kir with a splash of crème de cassis.