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Wild rocket (Diplotaxis tenuifolia), also called perennial wall-rocket, sand rocket or by its Italian name rucola selvatica, is a hardy perennial green in the mustard family grown for its narrow, deeply pinnate leaves and their intense peppery, mustardy, faintly nutty bite. Sharper, thinner- leaved and more assertive than the annual salad arugula it is sold beside, it is the rocket of Italian menus — heaped raw under shavings of Parmesan with lemon and olive oil, piled on pizza and bruschetta straight from the oven, folded into pasta at the last second, or laid as a spicy bed beneath cured beef and burrata, where its horseradishy edge cuts richness the way watercress or radish does.
What to look for, from just cut, lobes standing up to yellow, limp, slimy at the tie.