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The tuna collar — Japanese kama, and maguro kama for tuna — is the wedge of rich, fatty meat behind the gills that wraps the base of the pectoral fin and the collarbone. Two come from each fish. Laced with fat and seams of connective tissue, it is one of the fattiest cuts on the tuna — rivalling the toro belly — and grilling or broiling melts it to a gelatinous, almost toro-like succulence eaten hot off the bone.