Sea kale

Crambe maritima · Vegetable

40 pairings

Sea kale (Crambe maritima) is a hardy perennial brassica of European sea-coasts, grown for the blanched young shoots it throws up in early spring. Forced in the dark, the pale, fleshy stems are crisp and mild — sweet and faintly nutty, with a delicate cabbage-and-hazelnut flavour quite unlike the bitter green leaf the plant becomes when left in the sun.

Picking a good onedrag

Ivory, rigid, snapping wetLimp, browning, stringy

Market freshThe classic: steam or poach the shoots a few minutes, then serve them hot with butter, hollandaise or a vinaigrette, asparagus-fashion.Everyday best

Colour of the stemCream stem, a faint green blush at the curled tips

The bendFirm, gives a little, then snaps

The cut baseFace dry, a thin brown rim

Smell at the cutFaint, clean, close to neutral

What to look for, from ivory, rigid, snapping wet to limp, browning, stringy.

Preparing