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The cheek is the small, round muscle set into each side of a salmon's head — the laksekinn of the Norwegian fish counter, the hoho-niku ("cheek meat") of Japanese butchery — that works the jaw. Two come from each fish, each barely a mouthful, tender yet firm with a springy, scallop-like bite: mild, clean and faintly sweet, a scarce morsel quickly pan-seared in butter or gently poached.
These cues are Salmon's, and hold across its cuts; where this one differs, its own page says so.