Sainte-Maure de Touraine is a soft, surface-ripened goat's-milk cheese from the Touraine region of France's Loire Valley, made in the unmistakable shape of a long tapering log dusted with grey vegetable ash and run through lengthways with a single rye straw. Bright, lactic and goaty when young, it grows denser, nuttier and more pungent as it ripens beneath a wrinkled blue-grey rind.