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Quatre épices
Spice
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Quatre épices ("four spices") is a classic French ground spice blend built around pepper, nutmeg, ginger or cinnamon, and clove. Warm, peppery and sweetly aromatic, it is the signature seasoning of French charcuterie — pâtés, terrines, sausages and confits — and of long-simmered braises and stews.
Picking a good onedrag
Just milled, peppery and loudFaded and dusty, smells of nothing
Sealed and fragrantEveryday jarThe working jar — pates, terrines, sausage forcemeat, daubes and civets. Keep it airtight, dark and off the stove-top, and smell a pinch each time.
Crush and smellWarm and clearly spiced; rub a pinch and the clove comes up
Whole or groundMilled to order, or a sealed dated packet from a named shop
The ingredient listAll four named, the order of the smaller ones left unsaid
Feel and flowLoose still, with soft lumps that break under a fingertip