Wholegrain mustard

Wholegrain mustard — moutarde à l'ancienne, "old-style" mustard — is prepared with the seeds left whole or only partly cracked, so instead of the smooth cream of Dijon it has a coarse, glistening, seed-flecked body that pops between the teeth. Brown (and sometimes black) seeds are blended with pale yellow ones and steeped in a tangy vinegar or wine base; because so many seeds stay intact, the heat is milder, rounder and slower than smooth mustard, wrapped in a nutty, oily seed richness. It is the classic mustard of the charcuterie board, of sausages and cold cuts, of a mustardy vinaigrette, and of a glaze brushed over a baking ham.