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Longjing, or Dragon Well, is China's most celebrated green tea — the unoxidised leaf of Camellia sinensis, grown in the hills west of Hangzhou and pressed flat against the side of a hot wok by hand. Where Japanese greens are steamed and marine-vegetal, Longjing is pan-fired, and that heat rewrites its flavour: it brews a clear pale yellow-green liquor that smells of toasted chestnut, warm hay and fresh peas, mellow and smooth with a gentle, lingering sweetness and almost no harshness.