Ice Cider

Ice cider is the apple at its most concentrated and opulent: deep gold to burnished amber, syrupy and full in the glass, pouring with a slow, honeyed weight. The nose is intense baked and stewed apple layered with apricot, honey, caramel, brown sugar and dried fruit, often with a warm spice edge of cinnamon and clove. On the palate it is lusciously sweet — the residual apple sugar coats the tongue — yet what saves it from cloying is a firm, bright apple acidity that runs underneath and keeps the finish clean, long and refreshing rather than heavy. There is little or no fizz; the pleasure is in the richness, balance and length. Served well chilled in small pours, it is a dessert in a glass that also plays beautifully against salt and fat, which is why it is the classic Québec partner for foie gras and blue cheese as readily as for tarte Tatin.