Opened bottles near their end and ingredients coming into season show here.
Preparing
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Horseradish
Armoracia rusticana · Root vegetable
Top 10 pairings
A pungent white root of the mustard family. Whole, it barely smells, but grated it releases an eye-watering, sinus-clearing heat. Mixed with vinegar, it is the sharp sauce for roast beef and smoked fish.
Picking a good onedrag
Rock-hard, hot at a scratchLimp, woody, no bite left
Shop firmEveryday bestThe all-rounder: sauce, chrein, cream, or grated over beef.
CrownCut face darkening, still hard
In the handFirm, thumb barely marks the skin
Skin and fleshSkin matte, flesh creamy, dry rim
Scratch the skinA slow mustard prickle
Keeping ittap a temperature
A domestic fridge holds it about 26× longer than the counter.