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Cod tongues are not the fish's tongue at all but the fleshy, gelatinous morsel cut from the throat behind the lower jaw — one per cod, soft and jelly-soft in the middle, crisping to a golden edge when floured and pan-fried. A Newfoundland delicacy above all, traditionally cut by children on the wharf and fried in pork fat with scrunchions, it is the quiet star of Atlantic-Canadian nose-to-tail cooking.